St Helena - Waiting to be Discovered

Friday 20th of August 2004
Hans Feddersen

In the sub-tropics of the South Atlantic Ocean is the small yet beautiful Island of St Helena, one of Britain’s most remote dependencies. Once described as an emerald set in bronze because of its magnificent but overwhelming bronxe coastline which changes dramatically as you travel inland from wind eroded volcanic desert to lush green valleys and grass pastures. This adds to the mysterious beauty of this relatively unknown Island destination.

The nearest land is Ascension Island, one of the Island’s dependencies, which lies 703 miles to the northwest. The other dependency, Tristan da Cunha, lies to the southwest, 1200 miles (1950 km) away. The Island is 1200 miles (1950 km) from the southwest coast of Africa and 1800 miles (2900 km) from the coast of South America.

St Helena can offer visitors a holiday of peace and tranquility whilst enjoying activities like sport fishing and scuba diving in the clear waters that surround the Island. Inland activities could include scenic or historical tours and golf where the only distraction may be a donkey braying nearby or the brearhtaking scenery.

The Island is also a walker‘s paradise whether it is a gentle stroll along country roads or up the highest point, Diana‘s Peak (2 685 ft, 818 m) to view the endemic flora and fauna. The Saint Helena Nature Conservation Group volunteers have restored the pathways of 20 walks around the island and installed a „post box" at the end of each walk, which contains a unique ink-stamp and visitor‘s book. The walks have been given a rating on a scale from 1 - 10 (10 being the most difficult and 1 being the easiest) so the walkers can feel confident that they will not exceed their abilities; a must for nature-lovers and avid hikers.

Unique History

St Helena‘s unique history is the result of its ideal position during the old trade routes to the western world, as it became a haven for sea travellers because of its luxuriant vegetation and equable climate. The Island was un-inhabited when the Portuguese Admiral Joao da Nova made the first landing on 21 May 1502. There were no permanent inhabitants until 1516 when a renegade officer, Dom. Fernando Lopez, jumped ship and chose to stay on the island where he lived for nearly 30 years with only one visit to Europe to receive absolution from the Pope.

The first Englishman on the Island, Thomas Cavendishm brought his ship into the James‘ Bay anchorage in 1588 where he found that several buildings had been erected for sick sailors who had been on the Island to recuperate. The Portuguese had also built a church.

A year later, the Dutch navigator Johan Huyghen van Linschoten arrived at the Island. Disputes over the ownership of the tiny Island between the Dutch and the English continued until 1633 when St Helena was formally proclaimed a Dutch possession. There is no evidence, however, of any permanent Dutch settlement on the Island or that any attempt was made to fortify the territory.

After the Dutch colonisation of the Cape of Good Hope, the English East India Company took possession of St Helena and started the first permanent settlement at Chapel Valley (Jamestown) in 1659.

There was Dutch opposition to the British move, which culminated in the invasion of 1673 when the English under the leadership of Governor Beale, were forced to withdraw to Brazil on a ship conveniently at anchor at James‘ Bay. Governor Beale immediately obtained a fast sloop to warn shipping in the immediate vicinity of St Helena of the Dutch occupation.

Fortunately, the East India Company dispatched Captain Richard Munden to command a fleet to escort the Indian merchantmen who were expected to arrive at St Helena during July of that year. The Governor‘s sloop encountered Captain Munden some miles north of St Helena and a daring plan was drawn up to regain the territory. The English fleet bombarded James‘ Fort until the Dutch surrendered. The East India Company held the Island under charter until 1834 when it was brought under the direct government of the British Crown.

Over the years, St Helena has had many visitors including Edmund Halley, who in 1677 came to catalogue the stars of the southern hemisphere and to observe the transit of Mercury and Venus. William Dampier, the navigator and explorer, visited the Island in 1691. Captain Cook stopped at St Helena in May 1775 on his homeward voyage during his second circumnavigation of the world.

The most internationally renowned figure associated with St Helena is, of course, Napoleon Bonaparte who was exiled to the Island in 1815 following his defeat at the Battle of Waterloo. Napoleon spent the first three months in exile living contentedly with the Balcombe family at the Briars Pavillion. He then moved to Longwood House, where he resided with his French retinue, officers, generals and servants.

He remained on the Island until his death in 1821, when he was buried at Sane Valley, chosen by Napoleon himself for its peacefulness and beauty. Although his body was removed in 1840 to Les Invalides in Paris, the tomb remains.

Longwood House, the Briars Pavillon and the tomb are now maintained by the French Government and attract much international interest.

During the 1840‘s, St Helena was an important base for Royal Naval vessels attempting to stop the slave trade from West Africa. Some of the 10 000 slaves who passed through St Helena remained on the Island as labourers or domestic servants, adding to the existing racial mixture which is St Helenian.

The Islands economy which had been boosted by the presence of the coaling station, suffered greatly when the Suez Canal opened in 1869. Hundreds of ships were diverted to the Canal route to the east.

In 1897 another exile brought a measure of prosperity when the Zulu Chief Dinizulu, the son of Cetewayo, was sent to the Island at the conclusion of the Zulu War in South Africa. He and his family remained on St Helena for seven years.

In 1899 the first submarine cable was connected between St Helena and Cape Town and in 1900 it relayed the message that some of the prisoners who had been captured in the South African Anglo Boer War were to be transported to St Helena. A total of 6000 prisoners of war stayed on St Helena whose garrison had been enlarged to guard the prisoners. This brought a measure of prosperity, particularly to local farmers who provided much of the food for the troops and the imprisoned Boers. However, by 1903 the Boers had departed, the garrison was scaled down, and the next years witnessed much poverty on the Island.

The fortifications, cemeteries, buildings and the Island‘s archives portray tales of St Helena‘s fascinating past.

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